Koh Phi Phi Don is a backpackers paradise

Koh Phi Phi Don: a guide

While I was travelling around Thailand there was one goal: I wanted to see those postcard perfect long-tail boats. It took a jaunt to the North, Chiang Mai, and a scarring third class journey back down through the country, but I finally got what I wanted. Koh Phi Phi delivers: white sand, rustling jungles and sexy fire dancers.

If you get worn out from all that tiresome travelling in Thailand; Koh Phi Phi is the perfect place to lay your backpack for a while and soak up some sun. We had originally planned to hop around the islands but as soon as that long-tail boat docked, we knew we weren’t moving until it was time to fly home.

Phi Phi is actually made up of six islands and the most popular is Koh Phi Phi Don. Almost all of the island’s infrastructure was torn up by the 2004 tsunami but has bounced back. It’s on the well-trodden Thai trail and the droves of backpackers lured to the island by those Instagram pics are rapidly ruining the oasis all over again, but I’d still tell you to go and enjoy the crescent shaped beaches and party atmosphere. Before it really is too late.

Where to stay in Koh Phi Phi Don

We traipsed up a hill and found accommodation away from the noisy backpacker bars at Golden Hill Bungalows. With a pool and bar, these cute private twin bungalows were seriously inviting after three months of hostel dorms. I felt like I was on holiday from backpacking and at one point I text my mum to say I was staying in Koh Phi Phi forever.

Long Beach

A twenty minute trot over the sand or a quick long boat taxi ride from the port, Long Beach is one of the most beautiful beaches I’ve ever lay on, second only to Whitehaven Beach.

It felt so surreal to be walking around this Andaman paradise I’d always dreamed about. Most days we ate lunch at the beach’s restaurant so we never had to tear our eyes away from the view.

We would stay until the sun was going down, lolling in the shallow water and drinking Chang.

Nice Beach

‘Nice Beach’ is not as nice as Long Beach. It’s much busier because it’s easily accessible from the big hotels and nearer to the port. This is where all the backpacker bars are, and the place is transformed into a rave with UV painted revelers partying after nightfall.

Cafes and shops on Koh Phi Phi

I wanted to buy every single cliched pair of harem pants I saw in Koh Phi Phi’s many shops. They range from stalls selling anklets to cute boutiques selling ripped denim shorts and hand-printed vest, but be warned – the prices are inflated because you’re on an island.

There’s a really good selection of bars and cafes serving fresh food. One day I got disorientated in the local market and ended up at a European coffee shop eating REAL BREAD (not easy to find in Thailand). I also had Pad Thai at Papaya, which is supposed to serve the best authentic Thai food on Koh Phi Phi.

I also had the best, rustic pharma ham, garlic butter and rocket pizza of my life at one of the beach bars. I still crave it now. C and I got really drunk on our last night and danced really hard on the beach, went on a Bucking Bronco then got jealous of each other’s choice of drunk food. We ended up eating chicken kebab sprinkled on top of a pizza slice.

Being really classy girls, we were excited to find our first pint of Magners in Thailand on Koh Phi Phi, but disappointed to find it was flat.

Koh Phi Phi Nightlife

Every night we would saunter down to the beach front in the darkness (and I mean darkness – it was quite scary getting back to our accommodation at night) to watch the fire dancers do their thing on the sand. If you’ve been to Koh Phi Phi Don you’ll know what I mean when I say they are fit. If you haven’t been yet but are planning a trip, you’re in for a treat. Tell Micheal I love him and don’t try to join in the fire skipping rope. You will get burned.

Phi Phi has it’s own version of the Full Moon Party which gets really good in the hours before the sun comes up. Sh*t got messy as the sand became covered in cavorting, tanned hedonists. I loved it.

Boat trip to Monkey Island

There are tour companies all over the island where you can book excursions, the most popular being a boat trip to ‘Monkey Island’. Our boat was really overcrowded and when we got to monkey island, the boat drivers gave the monkeys sweets so we could all watch them greedily unwrapping them with their clever little hands. Then they gave the monkeys cans of coke, which I didn’t think was funny or cute – just worrying. One monkey threw the drink back up. As more boats docked and offloaded hoards of tourists, the monkeys grew agitated. It was clear they were feeling overwhelmed with the amount of people around them and one lady was very nearly bitten, so we all left.

We were lucky enough to meet a Scouse girl selling tickets to another boat trip, and that one was much better. In the next post I share my last day in Thailand: featuring the scariest thing I’ve ever done and our visit to the secret spot made famous by Leonardo Di Caprio and his abs in The Beach – Maya Bay!

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