Kaikoura is the most northern district in the Canterbury region of New Zealand’s south island and travellers go for the fantastic whale and dolphin spotting opportunities. But what is there to do in Kaikoura at that time of year when the marine life migrates? Read on to find out about my embarrassing experience on the sea while kayaking in Kaikoura, along with everything we did there.
Getting to Kaikoura
The best way to get around New Zealand’s South Island is by bus, not least for the stunning scenery you get to enjoy during your journey.
On the bus to Kaikoura (our last NZ destination!), we spotted some huge, lazy seals lolling on the grass banks at the shore. Our driver told us it was unusual for them to come so close to the road, so we pulled over to take some photos. Turns out seals love the camera!
Kayaking in Kaikoura (unsuccessfully)
We booked a day out swimming with dolphins in the wild, but unfortunately there had been a storm a few days before so the local dolphins had moved to a calmer area than the rocky peninsula of Kaikoura. That’s what they told us anyway. After hanging round a day extra hoping the dolphins would reappear, we were behind schedule and decided to skip Hamner Springs as we had already done the hot pools in Lake Tekapo. Instead of dolphins we made do with going kayaking on the sea.
Once we were out of the bay we spotted a seal munching on an octopus while an albatross sat a few metres away, waiting for his sloppy seconds. We floated nearby watching in dazed silence, then suddenly the seal dived down and disappeared under the water. A minute later, he flopped back up to the surface and almost launched himself on our kayak!
Here we are, showing off before it all went wrong…
On the way back to shore, our instructor showed us how to catch a wave and ride it back in to shore. The Belgians pulled it off perfectly. Then we tried. Of course we didn’t straighten our kayak up in time and I experienced that horrible sickening feeling the moment I realised we were about to be upside down. I surfaced quickly, giggling and grateful that the water was shallow enough to stand in. C on the other hand, was still under. Her skirt that sealed her into the kayak was still attached, and I was giggling for a good 30 seconds before I realised she was stuck. She lost her ray bans and sometimes I have visions of one of those seals chilling on the rocks in £100 sunnies. We were given ‘Kaikoura Kayaking’ woolly hats as a consolation prize, and stole extras because we were grumpy.
We were later told we had made history: the first capsize of the season in Kaikoura! At least they’ll remember us…
Beaches in Kaikoura
Kaikoura, like Wanaka, our previous destination, is a sleepy town based around the water. It’s funny how of the 1 million people in the South Island, they all settle around lakes or the sea.
We spent a few days there, taking walks along the pebbly beach and photographing the snow capped mountains.
I had never seen so many shades of blue until I went to New Zealand.
One afternoon we lazed on the end of the pier, trying to get a tan in the winter sun. It didn’t work. Why had we left a British summer for New Zealand’s winter again? Oh yeah, because they look like this:
Topless Beach? Bit nippy for that…
What to eat in Kaikoura
Kaikoura’s Maori heritage is evident in its name – ‘Kai’ means food, and ‘Koura’ means crayfish in Maori. Our budget may not have stretched as far as crayfish, but we did have some delicious groper at one of the local restaurants. We actually managed to eat out a lot in New Zealand, because we found it not much more expensive than buying our own food in supermarkets.
Where to stay in Kaikoura: the best hostel in New Zealand?
Our accommodation, Albatross Hostel, was everything a hostel should be. It even had an art corner! Albatross has a chalet-like look and feel, with long wooden benches and an old vault to store your valuables; and its walls are adorned with artwork from former guests, musical instruments, and books. We spent chilled out nights sipping hot chocolate, writing postcards, and listening to the receptionist play guitar – he sounded like Alex Turner from Arctic Monkeys! The next morning we got up early and there were bodies all over the cushioned sitting area. Sleeping bodies, not dead ones. I guess they give cheap rates to camper van travellers and turn a blind eye if they want to creep in to the warmth at night.
Check out booking.com’s list of the best budget accommodation in Kaikoura if you’d like more options.
If you’re planning your own Kiwi adventure, I’d highly recommend buying the Lonely Planet guide to NZ’s South Island. We found our lovely hostel there, and it was a lifesaver as we moved around.
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